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    FENDI REFLECTIONS 2021春夏女士系列和男士系列

    国外时装周 2020-09-24 16:16 来源：

    Seen through the looking glass, the FENDI Women’s and Men’s Spring Summer 2021 Collections are a patchwork of memories designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi. Time spent with family – generations reunited at home in Rome – is a catalyst for quiet introspection: at the window or in the garden, watching the world go by.

    透过镜子望向另一侧，Silvia Venturini Fendi 将回忆中的点点滴滴汇集成了FENDI 2021春夏女士系列和男士系列。罗马的这座家族大宅见证了几代人重聚的幸福时光，与家人相处的点滴推动着设计师安静地审视内心深处的自我：立在窗畔或身在花园，看着斗转星移、世事变迁。

    From the inside looking out, and the outside looking in, shadows and reflections are cast across the collections. Intimacy is abstracted through signposts of domestic life – a trousseau of stories unpacked and unfolded in a weaving together of the precious and the plain. The purity of linen is vital: romanced with cotton, feathers, fur and eiderdown quilting, it conjures images of embroidered bedding and tableware – maternal souvenirs passed down from mother to child. A flaxen palette breathes in natural shades of wheat, milk and honey amidst reflections of sky blue and cardinal red, as cinematic black and white shine like spotlights cast on cloth. Windows – metaphorical and physical – are a leitmotif impressed upon garments in a game of transparency and texture throughout.

    不论是由内而外，还是由外而内，阴影和倒影元素贯穿了系列始终。精挑细选的设计元素源自居家生活，反应出了人际关系的亲密无间——难忘回忆与日常起居的生活片段相互交织，一个个生动的故事徐徐展开。亚麻材质的天然纯粹是本系列的核心：纯棉、羽毛、皮草和衍缝羽绒面料又注入了更多浪漫的气息，让人不禁想起刺绣精致的床品和餐桌艺术——这些代代相传的日常事物承载着母亲对儿女深深的爱。以亚麻色为基调，小麦色、奶白色、蜂蜜色等在点缀着天蓝与鲜红的倒影中融入了自然的清新，而黑色和白色如同聚光灯般成为了面料上最引人注目的焦点。本季的男装系列和女装系列就像是一场围绕透明度和质地而展开的游戏，窗口则成为了衣物印花的中心元素。

    In tandem, the Women’s and Men’s Collections explore FENDI traditions stripped bare – from boutis satin quilting to the linear encrustations of jour d’echelle ladder-work and flourishes of ajouré flowers that expose skin to create layers of light and shade. Formal structures are softened – coat backs and shirt sleeves unbutton, tailored details are ‘debossed’ in trompe l’oeil knitwear, and embroidered house coats and flared tunics elevate the comforts of home. Lightness and depth intermingle in faded flora print linens and latticework furs, or the intricate workmanship of apron dresses in silk duchesse, embroidered tulle and gazar. Acknowledging the gravity of a moment, clothes tell stories of the rigour of Italian craft and the emotion of our universal experience – FENDI workmanship applied under surreal circumstances.

    本季女装系列和男装系列对FENDI传统进行了穷尽式探索——从boutis工艺衍缝真丝到jour d’echelle硬朗的梯形线条，再到无处不在的ajouré印花；印花通过巧妙的露肤设计制造出丰富的光影层次。严谨的正装变得更加亲切随和——大衣后片和衬衫袖口的扣子敞开着，trompe l’oeil错视艺术的定制细节更加隐秘低调，精美的刺绣居家袍和下摆散开的上衣为居家时光平添几分惬意。做旧质感的印花亚麻面料，网格皮草，由丝绸、刺绣薄纱和gazar透明薄纱制成的连衫围裙，既有轻盈的跃动，又有厚重的沉稳，而其所彰显的高超工艺更是令人叹为观止。

    The FENDI Women’s and Men’s Spring Summer 2021 Accessories collections play with construction and embellishment to conceal and reveal. In movement, embroidered silk veils float over Baguette and Peekaboo bags in floral fur and cotton ajouré or quilted FF logo leather. Woven textures abound: market baskets in recycled PVC, stretch lattice frame totes, picnic baskets and canvas luggage are pragmatic and light-hearted solutions for daily life.

    FENDI 2021春夏女士和男士配饰系列在建筑感和装饰性上大做文章，把 “隐” 、 “现” 意味表现得淋漓尽致。绣有精美图案的丝巾随着模特的步伐轻盈起舞，Baguette手袋和Peekaboo手袋在薄纱的掩映中若隐若现。这些新款手袋的材质包括印花皮草、棉质ajouré和饰有FF logo的绗缝皮革。编织元素是本季配饰系列的另一大亮点：由再生PVC制成的购物筐、可拉伸的格构架tote手袋；野餐篮和帆布行李包在日常场景中用途广泛，是轻松生活的不二之选。

    The ‘hand in hand’ Baguette project celebrates a unique collaboration with local artisans across Italy, including the Abruzzo and Marche regions shown on the runway. Handcrafted in Abruzzo, a sheer Baguette is constructed in tombolo aquilano sugar-coated lace, a technique refined by Benedictine nuns since the 15th century. From Marche, a structured Baguette woven in strands of natural willow is inspired by the baskets of local fishermen.

    “hand in hand” Baguette手袋项目则是FENDI与意大利境内各地区杰出手工艺人的合作典范，由阿布鲁佐（Abruzzo）和马尔凯（Marche）当地匠人手工制作的Baguette手袋也现身秀场。Abruzzo匠人纯手工完成的Baguette手袋全部由糖霜般的tombolo aquilano蕾丝制成，通体透明，精巧至极。自15世纪以来，经由本笃会修女们的不断完善、改进这项技艺，最终形成了我们今天见到的面貌。来自Marche的手工艺人则以当地渔民的柳木渔篮为灵感，用天然柳木编结出了Baguette手袋。

    Laser-cut and ajouré apron belts hold the second iteration of the FENDI X CHAOS ‘tech jewellery’ capsule collection dipped in pastel colours, and chain drop earrings feature pearls and pairs of cheeky FENDI dice.

    FENDI X CHAOS共同打造的胶囊配饰系列 “科技珠宝” 也推出了最新一季的作品：不论是多种色彩的激光切割技术和ajouré腰带，还是饰有珍珠和FENDI骰子的链式耳坠，大胆创新的精神无处不在。


    On foot for Women – woven boots, elastic pumps, and rattan pool slides evoke a tonal spring elegance. For Men – sling-back boat shoes and T-bar plimsolls are new twisted classics.

    在女士鞋履部分——编织质地的靴子、弹力十足的高跟鞋和藤编坡跟鞋优雅大方，春日活力扑面而来。在男士鞋履方面，露跟船鞋和T字鞋面胶底帆布鞋为经典款式注入了新的活力。

    THE SHOW SETTING

    秀场背景

    At the FENDI show space in Milan, the Women’s and Men’s Spring Summer 2021 Collections designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi are unveiled together in an intimate fashion show setting evoking the traditional and domestic inspirations of the collections. An airy scenography composed of fresh white curtains floats in the breeze – complemented by the undulating sofas that return from the Fall Winter 2020-21 Women’s show set, now covered in white cotton.

    Silvia Venturini Fendi 设计的FENDI 2021春夏女士系列和男士系列秀场设在米兰，两大系列同时发布，秀场设置也充满了来自FENDI 传统元素和居家生活的灵感细节。白色的窗帘随风飘荡，营造出空灵的透视感，来自FENDI 2020-21 秋冬女士系列秀场的波浪形沙发也摇身一变，披上了纯白色的棉布外衣，与窗帘设计遥相呼应。

    A series of luminous vignettes punctuates the space – digital ‘windows’ projected across walls and floors revealing glimpses of the outside world, from garden flora to passing birds and the day’s cycle of the setting sun. As models walk through the show set, each window projects a unique story across their looks, creating fleeting moments of shadow and light that accentuate the workmanship of each garment.

    随着一系列荧光元素的加入，秀场空间变得错落有致——投影在墙面和地板上的数字“窗口”展现出不同图案，既有花园中的花朵，也有划过天空的飞鸟，也有代表着一日终结的落日；而这些都指向了来自外部世界的打量。模特鱼贯而出，每套造型都与窗户中的故事一一对应，光与影在此刻交错，明暗对比间服饰的精致做工得到了最大限度的突出。

    Continuing the personal narrative of the Fendi Family, the show casting includes a selection of related models: mothers, fathers, sisters and sons include Edie and Olympia Campbell, Cecilia and Lucas Chancellor, and Philippe and Dries Haseldonckx.

    设计师透过她的视角用服饰来解读FENDI家族，超模Edie Campbell和Olympia Campbell，Cecilia Chancellor和Lucas Chancellor，Philippe Haseldonckx和Dries Haseldonckx各自展现了母亲、父亲、姐妹和儿子的家庭角色。

    For guests watching at home, a dual digital format splices together live footage of the fashion show with pre-recorded clips by the German director Norbert Schoerner.

    FENDI将现场走秀视频与预录视频结合起来进行在线播放，让在家观看的观众能够获得更好的体验。预录视频由德国导演Norbert Schoerner执导拍摄。

    THE MUSIC

    秀场音乐

    Mixed live by the Italian musician Lorenzo Senni with a live string quartet, the FENDI Spring Summer 2021 Fashion Show soundtrack is an original synthesizer composition featuring an extract from the film The Challenge composed by Senni and tracks from his album Scacco Matto (2020). Known for the invention of ‘pointillist trance’ music, Senni follows in a line of new wave Italian electronic musicians to collaborate with the house of FENDI, with previous artists including Caterina Barbieri, Ninos du Brasil, Donato Dozzy and Alessandro Cortini.

    FENDI 2021春夏秀场背景音乐是原创的合成器作品，由意大利音乐家Lorenzo Senni和现场演奏的弦乐四重奏乐团共同完成。他们共同演奏了Senni为电影《The Challenge》创作的原声音乐片段和他2020年的专辑《Scacco Matto》中的作品。音乐流派 “pointillist trance”的创始人是Senni最为人所熟知的头衔，此前FENDI已与多位意大利新一代电子音乐人进行了合作，包括Caterina Barbieri、Ninos du Brasil、Donato Dozzy和Alessandro Cortini等，今天Senni也成为了其中一员。

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